Look for keyholes

In surfing, a keyhole is a channel surfers use to paddle out from a rocky beach. Rather than walk and slip over a reef before launching into the water, you can paddle out using the channel though the reef if the tide is right. The locals will show you the way, but they won’t guide you. You need to watch, learn, and follow. Nobody is going to hold your hand and give you a guide book. Once you paddle out, then you’ve got to earn your spot in the lineup. One too many false takeoffs or wipeouts on a wave and you are toast. The better surfers will call your bluff and steal a wave from under your nose.

The paddle out and the line up is a great leveler. Yes, jets skis have opened up access and made surfing more coin-operated, but in most cases, there aren’t jet skis. Jets skis are like ski lifts. Imagine if everyone had to hike the mountain before they ski down. There would be way fewer people up there.

Respect local customs and earn your place in the lineup. Same for most things in life.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s